Now that we can bring mutations into the US we need to protect our investments with good food!
I am not for the Coconut Palm Sugar because of jungle habitat being destroyed for palm crops and it costs $200.00 wholesale for 50# of it. It makes the product look dark brown. So does brown sugar with too much iron and cheap $50.00 for 50 pounds!
There are lots of nice lories/lorikeets for sale and great foods on the market for them nowadays. Thank you Don Wells for the great base recipe! In the US there is enough business for everyone! If you have a great product you may loose a customer but 2 more come . I started Lory Food Products in 2009, when it was hard to find a consistent supply of quality lory food. I am a health nut so I wanted a healthy human grade food for the lories. I bought a recipe when it was considered nothing but a backyard recipe. The base recipe came from a famous lory breeder, another breeder used the base and added things that looked great for humans.
Will Peratino, helped me make it the best food available. Will and I made necessary changes which we adapted. Will has 40 years experience in parrot nutrition, and was employed by the big zoos. His job was flying around correcting diets. It was a very uphill road trying to get people to use it since they were used to a blueberry candy product. Each person that switched over to our food stayed because the lories were more active, had better color, and 50% more production. We found it necessary to create another product since it is a proven fact that breeding lories have more requirements than pet and exhibit lories. We now have our Breeder Blend Plus. We raised the protein level from 11 % to 13% and added turmeric for joints etc. I have used the turmeric in all the blends for a 3 years now with great results. Some things that come out are good for only humans, however the lories benefit also from turmeric. We now have our Breeder Blend "2024" available with the best Calcium, Vitamin & Mineral available! It is Dr. Stoddard's development tested by UC Davis. Will Peratino went through all the ingredients to make this product the best for the lories. The most important is a proper digestible protein, a good vitamin mineral, and calcium for eggs. Fresh fruits and veggies are the best. We do have fruits & veggies ground into our products.
I do my own milling here in a clean environment. That way I can control quality myself. I do not cut corners on products because I breed parrots and have for over 20 years. I realized that production and health of the birds takes top quality food and money. Cutting corners always caused failure.
Our employees love their work!
I personally like Adam Lock's Genetics 101 article because he likes to keep the Swainson rainbows as pure as he can www.lisaslories.com Other Australian article on genetics are good also. The Australians have been doing the mutations the longest.
My personal experience with genetics is with orchids & parrotlets for 20 years. There are similarities in plant and animal mutations I found. I learned that you need to buy the best stock you can afford to work with to come up with the best offspring. Common creates common.
I believe that only a basic knowledge of genetics is required for success. The simpler we keep it; the better it is for all of us. Example-(How does a TV work? I just watch it.) There are three main genetic inheritances we have to deal with in aviculture. The first is SEX-LINKED which we did not have in the plants.. It is so called because as the name implies it is linked to the sex of the bird. The first mutant bird to appear is always a female. When she is mated to a normal male it passes the factor to its son. These sons are normal in color and they split to the mutation. If one of these split cocks is mated to a normal hen it can reproduce the mutant female.
The next inheritance is RECESSIVE. It is so called because it is recessive to the normal bird. The first mutant to appear can be either male or female. If mated to a normal bird all the offspring are splits, i.e. they all carry the color gene but visually look normal. To reproduce this factor it is necessary to have the factor in both parents, i.e. the parents must be either mutant or both split to the mutant.
The third inheritance is DOMINANT: So called because it dominates over the normal bird. Some dominant mutations have single and double factors as in the pied Quarrion. Others don't. There does not appear to be any splits in any dominant mutation. Birds are either mutants of single or double factors or they are normals.
Albinos and Lutinos have no color pigment in the skin area. That is, their feet and legs are pink or flesh coloured. Their eyes are always red and any yellow or white feathering is of a clear color. The red range remains in Lutinos but is absent in albinos. These mutations are usually sex-linked, but not always, some are recessive. Cinnamons are probably the most commonly seen mutations. They are in fact partial albinos or Lutinos. Individual cinnamon mutations may range in degrees between normal and Lutino and albino. Recessive cinnamons are usually nearer to normal and all I have ever worked with have hatched with black eyes. sex-linked cinnamons are nearer to Lutino or albino and always hatch with red or plum coloured eyes. Some sex-linked cinnamons do in fact keep the red eye after they mature and some of these very advanced red eyed cinnamons are recessive. All cinnamons have no colour pigment in their feet. The ones nearer to normal are slightly darker than the ones nearer to Lutinoism. They all retain blue in a diluted form and they retain the yellow red range of colors; although the yellow may dilute into a more of a cinnamon color in some mutations.
The blue mutation is a bird without yellow colour pigment or in the case of par-blue, partially without yellow colour pigment. These birds only have blue, white and black feather colouring. In the par-blue mutation the blue and white is infused with yellow and the red is diluted to salmon. Feet and eyes remain normal colour in all blue mutations. All that I have come into contact with have been recessive.
Pied mutations are actually birds with albino spots on the skin. Any feathers that come in these spotted areas are the same as would be on a Lutino or an albino. Pieds shouldn't be confused with the mottling effect created by vitamin deficiencies or blood disorders. Pied is usually dominant but it may be recessive.
Dilute and and dilute yellows are birds where the color is diluted except in the yellow and red range. Feet and eyes remain normal in the dilute colors. In Fallow the eyes are red. All dilutes & fallows appear to be recessive in inheritance.
Olive is a mutation that has appeared more recently in Australian parrots. It can't be confused because all green areas become a dark olive. Blue becomes grey and yellow and red remain. The only olive mutations in Australian parrots have been totally dominant without any visual single or double factors.
Color variations are another color form that we see quite a bit. This is where a variation that exists in the normal bird has been accentuated by aviculturists through line breeding and has become extended in its distribution over the bird. Currently there are two fine examples in Sydney in two rainbow lorikeets, held in two different aviaries. They are exceptionally fine birds but I doubt that there is any future in them. One of them is in fact currently in my aviaries and at the moment has two normal young ones. Over the next few years, perhaps I will be able to make more comment. I would like to point out why I don't think this is genetically inherited. There are too many things wrong with the bird. The red has overtaken too many other colours. The blue belly on the normal Rainbow Lorikeet has been replaced with red and this is just not possible, the blue should have gone to white. The blue head should have gone to white and should have no red through it. The beautiful golden yellow would not be seen so richly in a Lutino.
There is one factor in its favour. The Andalusian (Spanish Dancing Horse) are born Bays and at about five years old turn into Greys. This does appear to be genetically based.
Perhaps this is similar to what is happening with these birds so that they change colour at a certain age. At this stage I just don't know. Joe Forshaw believes it is a hormone deficiency and I tend to agree with this.
Type of Lory Approx. Weight Approx. Daily Nectar consumption per bird
Latin Name--------English Name Weight In Grams Suggested Daily Nectar/Powder
Chalcopsitta a. atra Black Lory 220-250 1 cup/8 ounces
C. a. insignis Rajah Black Lory 200 - 250 1 cup/8 ounces
C.d. duivenbodei Duyvenbode's Lory 230-250 1 cup/8 ounces
C. s. scintillata Yellow-Streaked Lory 200-230 1 cup/8 ounces
C. cardinalis Cardinal Lory 200-250 1 cup/8 ounces
Eos cyanogenia Black winged Lory 160-200 3/4 cup/6 ounces
E. s. squamata Violet-necked Lory 125-150 3/4 cup/6 ounces
E. reticulata Blue-Streaked Lory 160-175 3/4 cup/6 ounces
E. h. histrio Red and Blue Lory 160-200 3/4 cup/6 ounces
E. b. bornea Red Lory 170-190 3/4 cup/6 ounces
Pseudeos fuscata Dusky Lory 155-165 1 cup/8 ounces
Trichoglossus ornatus Ornate Lorikeet 95-120 1/2 cup/4 ounces
T. h. haematodus Green Naped Lorikeet 130-150 3/4 cup/6 ounces
T.h. mitchellii Mitchell's Lorikeet 85- 00 1/2 cup/4 ounces
T.h. webwei Weber's Lorikeet 85-100 1/2 cup/4 ounces
T.h. capistratus Edward's Lorikeet 130-150 3/4 cup/6 ounces
T.h. rosenbergii Rosenberg's Lorikeet 130-150 3/4 cup/6 ounces
T.h. massena Massena's Lorikeet 130-150 3/4 cup/6 ounces
T.h mulluccanus Rainbow Lorikeet 130-150 3/4 cup/6 ounces
T.h. rubritorquis Red Collard Lorikeet 130-150 3/4 cup/6 ounces
T.f. meyeri Meyer'e Lorikeet 55-60 1/2 cup/4 ounces
T. chlorolepidotus Scaly-breasted 85 3/4 cup/6 ounces
T euteles Perfect Lorikeet 95-115 3/4 cup/6 ounces
Psitteuteles goldiei Goldie's Lorikeet 50-65 1/2 cup 4 ounces
P. johnstoniae Mt. Apo Lorikeet 55-65 1/2 cup/4 ounces
P. versicolor Varied Lorikeet 60-70 1/2 cup/64 ounces
Lorius l. lory Black-capped Lory 200-250 1 cup/8 ounces
L.l. erythrothorax Red-breasted Lory 200-230 1 cup/8 ounces
L.l. salvadorii Salvadori Lory 200-230 1 cup/8 ounces
L.l. jobiensis Jobi Lory 210-250 1 cup/8 ounces
L. chlorocercus Yellow-bibbed Lory 150-200 3/4 cup/6 ounces
L. domicellus Purple-napped Lory 250 1 cup/8 ounces
L.g. garrulus Chattering Lory 200-250 1 cup/8 ounces
L.h. hypoinochrous Purple-bellied Lory 250 1 cup/8 ounces
Glossopsitta concinna Musk Lorikeet 60-80 1/2 cup/4 ounces
G. pusilla Little lorikeet 45 1/2 cup/4 ounces
G. porphyrocephala Purple Crowned Lorikeet 45 1/2 cup/4 ounces
Charmosyna papou goliathina Stella's Lory 95-115 3/4 cup/6 ounces
Oreopsittacus arfaki major Whiskered Lorikeet 22-28 1/4 cup/2 ounces
Neopsittacus musschenbroekii Musschenbroek's 50 1/2 cup/4 ounces
There are always questions about plants and which ones are safe and which ones should be avoided. The following is by no means a complete list of what is safe and what is not. You might need to do a little research on individual plants if you don't find it listed here.
Lories love flowers, so here are some SAFE common flowers your lory will love:
Acacia, Bottlebrush, Calendula, Carnation, Daisies, Dandelion, Eucalyptus, Hibiscus, Honeysuckle, Marigolds, Milk Thistle, Nasturtiums, Pansies, Passionflowers, Roses, Sunflowers and tree flowers including apple, citrus and eucalyptus.
Note: While many flowers may be safe, other parts of the plant including, leaves, stems and roots may be toxic
A PARTIAL LIST OF SAFE PLANTS AND TREES
Acacia, African Violet, Ash, Aspen, Baby’s Tears, Bamboo, Begonia, Birch, Bougainvillea, Christmas Cactus, Coleus, Corn Plant, Crabapple, Dandelion, Dodwood, Donkey Tail, Dracaena, Eucalyptus, Ferns (Asparagus, Birds Nest, Boston and Maidenhair), Figs, Gardenia, Grape Ivy, Jade Plant, Marigold, Mother-In-Law Tongue, Mulberry, Nasturtium, Natal Plum, Norfolk Island Pine, Palms (Areca, Date, Fan, Lady Parlor, Howeia, Kentia, Phoenix, Sago), Pepperomia, Petunia, Pine, Poplar, Prayer Plant, Purple Passion, Rubber Tree, Schefflera , Spider Plant, Swedish Ivy, Thistles, Umbrella Plant, Wandering Jew (green, variegated and purple), White Clover, Willow, Zebra Plant
This is a partial list of plants that may be considered unsafe for a variety of reasons. Some may contain toxins that, when ingested, can cause problems. Or contact with may cause skin irritation. Others may be highly toxic in their entirety or some element of the plant may be toxic.
Amaryllis, Azalea, Black Locust, Box Elder, Buttercup, Cactus (danger from thorns), Caladium, Cedar, Clover, Crocus, Dieffenbachia, Elderberry, Gingko, Holly, Iris, Laurel, Lily, Marijuana, Milk Weed, Mimosa, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Orchid, Olive, Ornamental Ivy, Philodendron, Poison Ivy, Poppy, Pothos, Ragweed, Rhododendron, Trumpet Vine, Verbena, Wisteria
Also not safe are the bulbs of flowers such as tulips, jonquils, hyacinths, daffodils, and iris.
NOTE: Nightshade is a group of plants whose members can be highly toxic; however there are some safe and edible members of this family. Potatoes, tomatoes and eggplant are all edible; however, the leaves, roots and vines may not be. All parts of Belladonna can be deadly poisonous.
Apple, Banana ,Blackberry, Blackcurrant, Blood orange ,Blueberry ,Cantaloupe melon, Cherry, Cranberry ,Dried dates, Figs (fresh) Gooseberries, Grape- sparingly, Guava ,Honeydew melon, Kiwifruit, Lychee (Litchi) ,Mandarin ,Mango, Melon ,Nectarine, Orange ,Papaya ,Peach, Pear Pineapple ,Plum ,Pomegranate, Quince ,Raspberry, Red Currants Strawberry T,angerine ,Yellow Plum, Citrus SPARINGLY!
. In general, the younger the bird, the thinner the mixture should be. The day old chick requires a more dilute mixture (90% water) as it is still utilizing the yolk sac. Chicks older than one or two days should have food with 70 - 75% liquid.
We feed day old lory chicks Psittacus Crop Milk for the first two weeks. After two weeks we change to Exact Macaw Handfeeding Formula with Gerber baby food spinach/carrot/pea. It helps with slow crop. When the baby starts pin feathering we add some lory powder to the mix. If you start too soon, the lory powder can cause bacterial problems from the sugar.
Food kept for more than two days in the frig is an ideal place for harmful bacteria and yeast to grow. Any food prepared or heated in the microwave oven must be mixed thoroughly to blend hot and cold spots. Try to achieve homogenous food temperatures of 102° - 106°F (39° - 41°C). Use a thermometer. Food that is too hot will cause severe burns to the crop. Food that is too cold will not be accepted or digested well.
Syringes are probably the preferred feeding tool, but some still prefer a spoon with the sides bent up and inward. Accurate feeding volumes can be recorded with the syringe. Charting daily feedings is important. The natural feeding response of a baby bird is to rapidly bob the head in an up and down motion. This action can be stimulated with gentle finger pressure at the corners of the mouth. During this head bobbing, the trachea is closed and large amounts of food can be given relatively quickly. If the bird is not displaying a strong feeding response then do not attempt to feed, as there is an increased chance of aspiration of food into the trachea and lungs, leading to death. The best time to feed is when the crop is empty. When full, the crop, which is the sac that hangs over the front of the chest at the base of the neck, will be visibly distended.
Look at the crop before you feed so you do not aspirate the chick. Stop when it looks like enough. Some chicks do not know when to stop. Also the clock may say it is time to feed, but the crop has food -wait a bit.
AGE OF CHICK BEST TEMPERATURES
1-5 Days 34.4 C– 35.5 C 94 D – 96 D
6-9 Days 33.8 C – 35 C 93 D – 95 D
10 – 14 Days 32.7 C – 33.8 C 91 D – 93 D
15 – 21 Days 30 C – 32.2 C 86 D – 90 D
22 - 28 Days 27.2 C – 29.4 C 81 D – 85 D
29 – 35 Days 24.4 C – 26.6 C 76 D – 80 D
36 Days to weaning 21.1 C – 23.8 C 70 D – 75 Di
Incubate the eggs in an incubator designed for parrot or exotic bird eggs. The incubator you use should have accurate temperature control within one-tenth of one degree, and ideally a system for humidity control. Maintain the temperature at 99.3 degrees F, and the humidity at 40 to 50 percent. We like the INCA.
An egg, to the initiated observer, may seem a simple reproductive method. An egg nevertheless is an extremely complicated structure and contains many intricate parts which collectively enable the egg to hatch through incubation processes. It is, of course, essential that an egg contains all the nutritional requirements necessary to allow a growing chick to hatch, if all these ingredients are not present, then obviously the chick will fail to hatch and the common term ‘dead in shell’ will prevail. It is therefore important that birds have an adequate diet to ensure that this phenomenon is reduced considerably. As there are adequate descriptions of structure of an egg in other avicultural books. Parrots lay eggs with no color, i.e. white. It is generally felt the eggs are white because parrots lay in hollow trees which tend to be dark areas and she can see the eggs when entering the nest. The egg shell is formed in such a way that it is difficult to enter from the outside but relatively easy to exit for the chick from the inside. The egg shell contains pores that allow moisture and gases to escape. Unfortunately, it is also possible for bacteria to enter through the same pores if the shell goes through a series of cooling. Egg shells also can be accidentally punctured by the hen’s nail or cracked by a descending blow when the hen enters the nest. These eggs will invariably fail to hatch as bacteria will enter. The albumen or egg white consists of three proteins. Globulin, mucins and albumen. The egg yolk contains proteins and fats which will be consumed by the growing embryo and will form the main source of nutrition. The embryo begins to develop before the laying of the egg.
Incubating parrot eggs 35-50% humidity
Hatching parrot eggs 65% humidity