I started Lory Food Products 10 years ago, when it was hard
to find a consistent supply of quality lory food. I am a health nut so I wanted a
healthy human grade food for the lories. I bought Chris Touchton’s recipe when she first made it. Chris Touchton is a big lory/lorikeet breeder is Florida. She always had big well developed babies. Will Peratino, helped me make it the best food available. Will and I made necessary changes which Chris adapted. Will has 30 years experience in parrot nutrition, and was employed by the big zoos. His job was flying around correcting diets. It was a very uphill road
trying to get people to use it since they were used to a blueberry candy
product. Each person that switched over to our food stayed because the lories were more
active, had better color, and 50% more production. We found it necessary to create another product since it is a proven fact that breeding lories have more requirements than pet and exhibit lories. We now have our Breeder Blend Plus '2020'. The '2020' was because we made some changes. We raised the protein level from 11 % to 15% and added turmeric for joints etc. I have used the turmeric in all the blends for a 3 years now with great results. Some things that come out are good for only humans, however the lories benefit also from turmeric. We now have our Breeder Blend "2020" available with the best Calcium, Vitamin & Mineral available! It is Dr. Stoddard's development tested by UC Davis.
I do my own milling here in a clean environment. That way I
can control quality myself. I do not cut corners on products because I bred
parrots for over 20 years. I realized that production and health of the birds
takes top quality food and money. Cutting corners always caused failure.
Our Dog and Horse Supplements are created to be the best on the market. When the neighbor kids show our horses and dogs they want to win OF COURSE!!!!
We are always looking to improve our products so we always
New Facebook list: Lory Exchange- ask to join and I will add you!
or Friend request to Linda J Blessing
ALWAYS TEST AN INCUBATOR FOR A WEEK TO MAKE
SURE IT IS EXACT! IT CAN NOT FLUCTUATE MUCH.
egg, to the initiated observer, may seem a simple reproductive method. An egg
nevertheless is an extremely complicated structure and contains many
intricate parts which collectively enable the egg to hatch through incubation
processes. It is, of course, essential that an egg contains all the
nutritional requirements necessary to allow a growing chick to hatch, if all
these ingredients are not present, then obviously the chick will fail to
hatch and the common term ‘dead in shell’ will prevail. It is therefore
important that birds have an adequate diet to ensure that this phenomenon is
reduced considerably. As there are adequate descriptions of structure of an
egg in other avicultural books. Parrots lay eggs with no color, i.e. white.
It is generally felt the eggs are white because parrots lay in hollow trees
which tend to be dark areas and she can see the eggs when entering the nest.
The egg shell is formed in such a way that it is difficult to enter from the
outside but relatively easy to exit for the chick from the inside. The egg
shell contains pores that allow moisture and gases to escape. Unfortunately,
it is also possible for bacteria to enter through the same pores if the shell
goes through a series of cooling. Egg shells also can be accidentally
punctured by the hen’s nail or cracked by a descending blow when the hen
enters the nest. These eggs will invariably fail to hatch as bacteria will
enter. The albumen or egg white consists of three proteins. Globulin, mucins
and albumen. The egg yolk contains proteins and fats which will be consumed
by the growing embryo and will form the main source of nutrition. The embryo
begins to develop before the laying of the egg.
Incubating parrot eggs 35-45% humidity
Hatching parrot eggs 65% humidity
Handfeeding Chicks Procedures
By C.T. A Very Good
I have been day
oneing Lories (and occasionally other parrot species) since 1990.
I incubator hatch about 98% of my babies at this point. When you day
one it is best to have the formula a little thinner when feeding just hatched
chicks, this is only for the first couple of days. When I say thinner I
just mean runny, I dont mean transparent. I fill the crop as full as it
will get and try to add a little more. When parents feed they stuff the
chicks so full, sometimes I don’t see how they are sitting up right. I
use Zupreem Embrace Plus handfeeding only (no nectar added). I feel
that it is a more refined (therefore more easily digested by the Lories weak
gizzard). I do not mix nectar in until I am weaning a Lory. They
need protein and some fat when they are developing/growing. They do not
need carbohydrates (energy) until they are weaning. I also feel that
because candida is a yeast and yeast feeds on sugar there is no good reason
to add nectar until weaning when the babies then need energy food.
handfeeding around 7-8 am. The ones that are days old should be getting
food every two to three hours. The last feeding of the evening is
10pm. My theory is the parents upon waking up in the am and leaving the
nest have to forage for food then get back and feed chicks. They cannot
forage for food before dark or after dark. Most pairs retire for the evening
about 15 to 30 minutes before dark. So I see absolutely no reason to feed
through out the night. Best case scenario is dark around 830 to 845pm
(summer only of course) crops empty within hours. No more intake
until next am. IF a chick cannot make it through the whole night
without eating I do not think it should be saved. There is
something wrong with it. Say you are able to raise it up (by
feeding around the clock) to what end?? a substandard chick that
will expire prematurely a little down the line from some problem?
I incubate in a
Grumbach then when I see them up in the air cell I move them to
the brooder. I keep the day old chicks in a Havabator forced air
incubator (the 1583 model with the large window) I keep that incubator (as a
hatcher/brooder) at 99 to 100 degrees. I want the chicks body to be
concentrating on growing not trying to keep warm. Parents bodies are I
think 102? (I know over 100) They are in this unit until they are
approximately 5 to 7 days old. Keep the brooder with high
humidity--simple as a cup of water placed inside. Their skin will peel
if the humidity is too low. Then they are moved into the a brooder. AVEY
is not a consideration! This unit has two shelves the top shelf is 98 degrees
and the bottom shelf is 96 to 97degrees. The door is left a
little ajar on this unit for more air movement which helps with their
growth. Keep the humidity up at this stage too.
At 12 to 14 days old
I move them out into bins (new bins for every group) that are now
housed "open air" on heating pads set on low (no two hour auto
shut off heating pads!!!) The ambient air temp is anywhere from 77 degrees to
82 degrees in this room. The chicks coat of down comes in much faster
after being exposed (no they are not shivering) to the open air.
I use O-Ring
Syringes with center or side tips (luer slip) (don’t get the screw tips (luer
lock) they are not precise enough unless you are attaching a tip) they
have a much more smooth fluid disbursement. The one time use
syringes (monoject types the ones with the black rubber plungers)
are lubed with oil. They are meant for one time. Some people use them until
they can’t move. I find two things wrong with this first they are lubed
with oil. Where is that oil going? Second you will hit a
(dry/tough spot) and the syringe will need extra force to continue the
disbursement. Then all of a sudden it hits a lubed spot and you now get
a much larger faster flow going into the chicks mouth/esophagus/trachea
potentially aspirating it. Parrots can not cough anything up out of
their lungs (hence the reason they aspirate on food or are candidates for aspergillus)
So the odds of getting anything out of their lungs is quite small. They
only way I have been successfully with aspiration was to get the chick up
side down asap. I hold it and sling it hoping gravity will help out (do not
let go of course). I know this is going to sound stupid but if they are
partially aspirated if you do mouth to beak suction when they are
emitting a noise that helps too (suction only on chick's exhale).
I have saved some and have lost some to aspiration over the years (I
day one over 200 chicks a year so the odds are that it does happen I hate
Feed a just
hatched chick just after their first defecation (this one is a very dark
green) their body will now draw nutrients from the crop digestive system as
opposed to the yolk. Sometimes if you feed prior to that dark green
defecation the yolk can go rancid with in the body. If the chick was
out in the nest box and you don’t know if this has occurred turn the
chick up side down and look at the back end if you don’t see a black
line it has already occurred (fecal matter in the large intestine).
Their skin in the belly/abdomen area is a a bit transparent at this age.
To day one a
chick hold the chick in your left hand (only if you are right handed of
course) on its back (gently securing the head between your thumb and pointer
finger) if you have any trouble holding on to the chick, place the
chick in a tissue on its back and that will secure it in that position
for you while in your hand. For some reason they prefer to feed on
their backs (with me and with the parents) at this age. With the syringe
(I use a 1 to 3 cc for day ones then bump up to 5cc on 7 to 16 day
olds ending up with 10 cc until weaning) in your right hand come in
from the right (chicks left) angling the tip down and to
the left. Dispense slowly. If the chick slows down
prior to being full or doesn’t have a feeding response at the beginning
of feeding, squirt out a little of the mix from the syringe into a cup
or sink. That usually gets you down into a little warmer fluid because
it looses heat in the tip quite quick. Like I said earlier
you will feed the formula a little thinner. I mix my cup of food up
when feeding as per directions then draw the food into the syringe from the
top level of the mixed solution (which tends to be a little thinner).
Definitely try and stretch the crop when feeding (by feeding just a little
more when you think the bump is just slightly slack) Make the crop
tight. By the time I am weaning most of my Lories (rainbow and eos) are
15 to 20 ccs. The larger types are taking 20 to 30 ccs. I find
they eat better as adults.
If a chick comes
in from the nest cold NEVER feed a chick that is physically cold.
Warm the chick up first then feed. Do not use food to "warm it
up" ever. You can aspirate a lethargic chick.
By the time they are about two weeks old they start to prefer feeding while
they are sitting in an upright position.